My Frankenpad Conversion and Heat Sink Mods [+PICS]

[WalkGood]

For the 14.1" 16:10 lappies, there is an updated cooler available, which doesn't need any modification in order to fit. They are not so cheap, but they do have the 'updated' fan installed as well.

Do you have a part # or source/link for this updated cooler?

[TuuS]

For the 14.1" 16:10 lappies, there is an updated cooler available, which doesn't need any modification in order to fit. They are not so cheap, but they do have the 'updated' fan installed as well.

Do you have a part # or source/link for this updated cooler?

What type of laptop are you wanting to install it in? I ask because this seems off topic because the 14.1 widescreen heatsink won't fit any other model and has nothing to do with this topic. If you have a 14.1 widescreen with discrete graphics there was indeed two fans, one was made by toshiba and has two heatpipes and the other has 3 heatpipes and is very similar to the T61p fans. I think they were primarily a replacement part as I've rarely seen them even in late model laptops. I had a few of them but they sold quickly and I have only one left that I need for testing purposes. If you have integrated graphics they have only one fan as far as I know.

If however you're building a frankenpad the best cooler to use (in my opinion) is the T61p unit. I have some of them and they will work in all T60 models with discrete graphics (also integrated models but it would be overkill and unneeded), or all T61/T61p models except the 14.1 widescreen. There is a minor modification needed to use them on the T60 but it's well worth the effort.

[afraidfuture]

Why did I find out this thread so late, I was doing the modification exactly the way as "The ultimate combo is a T61 discrete graphics heatsink with the T500 fan installed, just like bmwman91 did. " , Now I am very happy regarding the heat performance on my old T60P machine(14.1 inch, T7600, V5250), under TPFANCONTROL CPU: 53, GPU:67 under light loading, fan is less than 3000, the T500 fan is amazing quiet compare to T61's, and I think it should be even better than T60p original fans as well.

The whole install process is quite straight forward, like previous post said, everything just dropped in except the presser above GPU, you need to file a little bit. Sorry for my crappy English, Thanks for Tuus and bmwman91, my old but classic t60p with standard 4:3 screen is becoming quiet and cool all over again.

Curious how this has been going for you since the fan upgrade? I am contemplating this on my own T60p 14.1 laptop. Been having some high temp in the GPU. Need to clean and re-apply the thermal paste first and see if that does the trick.

But looking ahead to possibly upgrading the fan assembly, where did you buy your parts and approx how much did it cost you?

Thanks!

Hi, Walk good, My t60p work just perfect after upgrading, the T500 fan noise level is better than T60p original and T61's at the same speed to me, and the T61 heat sink can transfer heat better than the original T60's. In general, after several months use, I am very satisfying with the results.
I am in China, I bought these two parts from "Taobao", the T61 heat sink(42W2820) cost me 130rmb(about 20USD), while the T500 fan cost me about 40rmb(6USD).

Hope it can make a help. To be honest, the whole process of modification is very interesting, and I have a lot of fun during these trial.

[afraidfuture]

For the 14.1" 16:10 lappies, there is an updated cooler available, which doesn't need any modification in order to fit. They are not so cheap, but they do have the 'updated' fan installed as well.

Do you have a part # or source/link for this updated cooler?

My T60p is 14.1inch 4:3 standard screen, the installation of two parts I mentioned above is dropping in install, while if your T60 is wide screen, that two parts might not be fit.

[Saucey]

Many thanks to bmwman91 for his photos and steps he took on this heatsink mod.
I've been thinking about trying out this FrankenPad and well I finally got the guts to do it.
I was tempted to buy a better CPU and HSF but I was a bit I still got to do holiday shopping so that'll have to wait.

Your pictures are very resourceful for this as well as everyone else who had posted their builds before.
Made it alot more easier than I thought it was going to be, just time consuming.

[Pete B]

Thanks for making this thread and all the pictures, very helpful.

Just wondering, the thermal interface material (TIM) that you used I assume is essentially thermal paste already spread out into a sheet, or is it more like a pad? What brand is that?

Review/test of thermal materials: http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/ind ... itstart=12

[Pete B]

After reading how well the NVS 140M GPU overclocks in the OP I am considering one of Tuus' boards for my Frankenpad project. I don't plan to normally overclock the GPU but I want to have the option and have read, I think in this thread, that someone had their GPU RAM melt from over clocking! So I'd like to glue on copper heat spreaders to the VRAM, Southbridge, and the main RAM. Not because I plan to overclock but mainly to keep things as cool and reliable as possible.

Any suggestions on a thermally conductive glue? Has anyone used this Arctic Silver adhesive, is it probably the best stuff? Arctic Silver Arctic Alumina 5g Thermal Adhesive Set AATA-5G? Alternatives?

One concern is of them falling off with the shock of a drop or whatever, is that Alumina good enough?

[ajkula66]

Not because I plan to overclock but mainly tokeep things as cool and reliable as possible.

If you're not intent on overclocking, additional heatsinks are not needed whatsoever. I've gone through more of these systems than I'd dare count and when properly set up - even with an X9000 - they'll behave just fine with a standard T61p heatsink and some fresh AS5.

[TuuS]

If you're not intent on overclocking, additional heatsinks are not needed whatsoever. I've gone through more of these systems than I'd dare count and when properly set up - even with an X9000 - they'll behave just fine with a standard T61p heatsink and some fresh AS5.

I agree, and the NOS boards tend to run cooler than any other nvs140 board so I doubt you'll have any problems, but always remember that overclocking is risky and temps must be monitored. I don't normally overclock my systems, but multiple reports suggest you can overclock the nvs140m to 70% without any thermal problems, but if you aren't going to watch it like a hawk and still want to overclock, then I'd not try to push the upper limit.

[Pete B]

I'm an EE and you all probably know that the die inside a plastic package is quite small, a heat spreader helps greatly to conduct the heat to a larger area and lower the die temp - it can't hurt and it will prolong the life of the parts. I worked in military defense electronics where we had to do reliability analysis. I'm not thinking of large heatsinks with fins, just a heat spreader. It is just a thought and I'll consider it once I have the board in hand. Thanks men for your input.

[Pete B]

Thanks for making this thread and all the pictures, very helpful.

Just wondering, the thermal interface material (TIM) that you used I assume is essentially thermal paste already spread out into a sheet, or is it more like a pad? What brand is that?

Review/test of thermal materials: http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/ind ... itstart=12

OP doesn't seem to be responding. Does anyone know if that is Honeywell PCM45F which is mentioned in an Intel Document
on Thermal management for mobile Core processors? Page 40 in this .pdf: http://www.intel.com/content/dam/www/pu ... -guide.pdf

Honeywell spec sheet in .pdf format: https://www.electronicmaterials.com/?do ... download=1

[BKthink]

OP is local to me and several years ago helped me out with a swap using some of the magic TIM. It was a thin grey sheet with peel off protective layers - cut to size and apply. The compound itself is fragile and one-time use only - kinda like a fine putty. He assured me it was superior to any liquid spreadable material including AS5 and only available in bulk. Still going strong in my machine. I'd venture that top-quality compounds, correctly applied, are similar in performance...

BK

[Pete B]

Thanks BK, given that there are so many theories out there on how to apply the TIM pastes it makes a lot of sense to have it already formed into the correct thickness for even application.

[TuuS]

I can't really speak to the TIM material since I've never had opportunity to compare it with well assembled componants using a good thermal paste, but over the years I've come to use Arctic Silver 5 exclusively on all the thinkpads I build, but I did need a cheap alternative for the constant testing and evaluation of motherboards, heatsink/fans and other components, so I've also tried some cheap paste that was sold in bulk. Many would suffice but did run significantly warmer, but still more than adequate for short term testing. I've also experimented on different methods of applying and I now thing the "pea sized" blob and let it spread is not a good idea as you are likely to not get full coverage and will have overspread on other areas. Also the "spread thin like butter" is also flawed. I prefer to cover the die on the chip so there is paste on the entire surface and make no effort to smooth it out. Ideally it will look like the surface of the ocean with waves, then when I assemble it I press one finger over each chip to press it down so that the paste flows to fill where it is needed and finally wiggle those fingers side to side to assure there is direct contact, metal to chip and the paste fills in the areas where it's needed. Over time I've had opportunity to open and inspect machines I've assembled and found there to be very little overspread this way and there is always equal coverage across the die. You'll know when it's opened because it will look like an opened peanutbutter sandwich, and often seems like you are breaking a suction when you remove it. The factory paste often gets dried out and crumbles, and as long as the laptop is stationary it will probably suffice, but if the laptop is jolted and the contact is broken, it will show signs of poor thermal contact where the as5 doesn't seem to dry out so severely.

With the TIM material, I'd say if it will flow when pressure is applied and allow metal to chip contact, then fine, but if it's anything like the pads used on T60 GPUs and controller chips which create a barrier for the heat to cross before it can be effectively removed by the fan.

The only way I could say for sure would be to try both on identical machines, then redo each switching the methods and compare again.

[SaskFellow]

I switched from AS5 because I'm not a fan of how it ages in use. On systems that I don't want to be tearing open yearly or bi-annually, I use Arctic Cooling MX-4, stuff has an 8 year use window, and it's not nearly as fussy as AS5.

I even tried some of that Antec diamond based grease, pain in the butt to install, but it works.

I personally use my hand wearing a nitrile glove to spread the paste on the core. If it's a lidded chip, then put a pea sized ball in the middle, and install the cooler straight down, tightening the bolts in a criss cross pattern.

Those sheets sound like phase change material, it's solid at room temp, liquefies at temperature. Careful with that stuff as it can cause corrosion issues with un-plated copper.