HV121WX4-120 (Matte AFFS panel) on X200 (Pics inside)

[Harryc]

Hmmm, I knew it was thin, so I was afraid of that. Thanks for the information Erik.

[erik]

yeah, the WXGA+ panel is ~1.5mm thinner if memory serves.   it's been a while since i've had an X200s in my hands to measure.

i've upgraded two WXGA+ and eight WXGA X200/X201 systems so far.   the WXGA+ systems wound up with their displays as donors for non-s systems.   it was easier playing legos than buying all the parts.

[vinuneuro]

the sockets are vastly different on LED notebook LVDS cables.   the notebooks have 40-pin 40mm sockets where the LED tablets require 40-pin 25mm sockets.   it can be made to work but requires soldering connections by hand directly to the controller board.

I don't suppose tablet motherboards can be made fit in notebook chassis' (in conjunction with a tablet lcd panel in a notebook lcd frame)? Am I right in assuming all the extra 1.3lbs comes entirely from the tablet's lcd assembly?

[erik]

it's nearly the same system planar (motherboard) between the 's' models and tablets.   only a few small changes are made between them.   the planar has nothing to do with the LCD or weight though.

planar aside, if you're eluding to trying to use a tablet LCD cable to run an LED panel in a notebook, forget it.   the tablet cables are too short.   even if it did work, you wouldn't need a tablet planar for this anyway.

the weight depends entirely on the display and battery.   my X200T tips the scale at ~3.2 lbs with a 4-cell, SSD, LED frameless display, and no camera.   that's only 0.4 lbs heavier than the notebook with 4-cell and the same weight as an X300/X301 with a 3-cell.   CCFL frameless panels are about 0.1 lbs heavier if memory serves.

if you want a lightweight tablet, throw a 4-cell in it and get an SSD.   problem solved.

[vinuneuro]

the planar has nothing to do with the LCD or weight though.

planar aside, if you're eluding to trying to use a tablet LCD cable to run an LED panel in a notebook, forget it.   the tablet cables are too short.   even if it did work, you wouldn't need a tablet planar for this anyway.

Why wouldn't the tablet planar be needed if one comtemplated such a swap? 40mm vs. 25mm sockets? Are the cable sockets at the same place on tablet and notebook boards? Either way you're right about the weight, I was accidently comparing weight specs of 4-cell notebook vs. 8-cell tablet.

[erik]

the 40mm and 25mm sockets i was referring to are on the backs of the LCD panels.   the system planars use the same connectors regardless of being notebook or tablet.   heck, a W510 LCD cable will plug into an X200 notebook at that end of the cable - the pinouts might not be correct but the sockets are the same.

the difference between the X20x notebook and tablet LCD cable is that the tablets have a hard jumper extension between the planar and the end of the LVDS cable.   both ends use a standard connector.   the extension is why the tablet cable is shorter though.   and, the extension won't fit in the notebooks due to being too large for the chassis.   a flexible extension could be made if one could source the sockets or remove them from a tablet extension.

given all that effort, it would make just as much sense to buy a tablet and live with another 0.4 lbs of weight.

[rkan]

What modifications does the x200s panel need to be connected to the x200?

[erik]

What modifications does the x200s panel need to be connected to the x200?

buy an X200s and swap the entire upper assembly (ie: hinges, antennas, LCD cover, LCD bezel, LED board, LVDS cable, and LCD).   it's the only cost-effective way to do it.

[fmilovanov]

What modifications does the x200s panel need to be connected to the x200?

If you want to install AFFS screen into X200s, get 1280x800 version: for it you'll need a panel itself, and if a laptop comes with LED back-light, you'll need LCD cable and inverter board. I've heard that 1440x900 versions cannot be upgraded w/out replacing the entire screen assembly - can't confirm this, but I've installed AFFS into my 1280x800 X200s with panel, cable and inverter only.

[erik]

I've heard that 1440x900 versions cannot be upgraded w/out replacing the entire screen assembly - can't confirm this...

i've mentioned it half a dozen times on this forum and corrected you twice about it already.   i speak from experience in performing this very modification.   please read my posts above.

[fmilovanov]

i've mentioned it half a dozen times on this forum and corrected you twice about it already.   i speak from experience in performing this very modification.   please read my posts above.

I don't dispute with you - I only share my experience and say what I've heard from others.

[khtse]

Guys, no more modding:

X220 has IPS option!

http://shop.lenovo.com/ISS_Static/ww/wc ... asheet.pdf

[ZaZ]

That would be sweet. I wonder about the cost.

[Harryc]

I am not sure but I have a hunch this thing is going to be expensive. I believe the X201 models were in the mid $1600 range when first released. I predict $1800 or higher with the IPS option.

[ZaZ]

I am not sure but I have a hunch this thing is going to be expensive.

To quote from the movie Platoon, "I got a bad feeling on this one..."

[ssd_thinkpad]

Putting IPS in the cheapest x220 would be a great deal. And then buy the intel pci ssd and remove the hdd. That would make a nice, fast, quiet thinkpad

[khtse]

To quote from the movie Platoon, "I got a bad feeling on this one..."

To quote from Darth Vader, "I find your lack of faith disturbing"

I figure that's probably a $200+ upgrade option. But getting the HV121WX4-120 isn't much cheaper than that. I just hope that they don't call it "extra bright" for no reason! The LCD on my CR-48 is significantly brighter than the HV121WX4-120 on my X200, but of course that TN-panel is no match when it comes to color reproduction and view angle.

One more thing. This basically guarantee that there is at least one IPS panel (and probably the only one) that is compatible with X220. In the worst case you can always get the TN panel, and then do the mod when you save up. Once people figure out the model number of the IPS panel that the X220 uses, we maybe able to get that panel in the magic kingdom called China directly at a lower price.

[rkan]

If you want to install AFFS screen into X200s, get 1280x800 version: for it you'll need a panel itself, and if a laptop comes with LED back-light, you'll need LCD cable and inverter board. I've heard that 1440x900 versions cannot be upgraded w/out replacing the entire screen assembly - can't confirm this, but I've installed AFFS into my 1280x800 X200s with panel, cable and inverter only.

No, I want to install the 1440x900 panel FROM X200s TO X200.

Can it be done?

[erik]

No, I want to install the 1440x900 panel FROM X200s TO X200.

Can it be done?

yes.   i asnwered your question above.

buy an X200s and swap the entire upper assembly (ie: hinges, antennas, LCD cover, LCD bezel, LED board, LVDS cable, and LCD).   it's the only cost-effective way to do it.

you can also buy the parts seperately but the list of parts needed is the same either way.

[Harryc]

The HV121WX4-120 (Matte AFFS panel) is back on EBay for $188 plus $25 shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-BOE-AFFS-LCD-sc ... 19c3d7bbee

[lawchristopher]

Is it easy to do this replacement? According to the manual, it says I pretty much have to take everything apart, from keyboard, and hand rest. From some pictures I've seen, it looks like some people simply took off the bezel. Can someone confirm for me?

Also, would it be cheaper to pick this up in Hong Kong and have someone install it there?

[ZaZ]

I can't speak for others, but my hand was too big to fit between the LCD and the top cover to get the LCD cable off. I had to take the LCD assembly off to install the LCD. It's not really that hard in my opinion. I suppose to some degree it depends on your knack for this kind of stuff. It's more time consuming than anything else.

I've never been to Hong Kong. You're on your own there.

[lawchristopher]

I got the panel installed now Panel came surprisingly fast. 3 days after I ordered, all the way from China. Only complaint though is that the panel is kind of bulky. The lid clicks, but it doesn't really seem completely closed.

[ZaZ]

Did you remove the touch surface?

[JonPB]

(I thought I might contribute my experience, as this thread convinced me to do the mod on my X200.)

I purchased a used screen. That was a mistake. It was cheap, but it has obviously been well-used, and has a bit of red tinge to it until the screen warms up. QuickGamma is great for correcting this, but I'd rather have spent the extra money to get a new panel.

Removing the touch-sensitive bits: not difficult, but care is required. The panel was glass, glued to the screen around the edges. Breaking the glass at first was nerve-wracking, but it worked out well; after that, I broke off a little more, detached and cleaned off the glue, and then broke off another piece. I did scratch the panel once, but I have never noticed that scratch except when I take the time to look for it.

I followed the manual, and it took about an hour or two, including glass removal. In retrospect, I would have popped open the bezel first thing; there is no need to remove the screen assembly from the base entirely. But the only harm in following the manual to the letter is a bit of extra time taken.

Overall, not difficult. But I'm a tinkerer with electronics--I've replaced capacitors in stereos and don't find soldering to be intimidating--so your mileage may vary.

Overall, highly recommended. I don't think I can ever go back to a TN panel.

The most time-consuming thing was calibrating the monitor. The stock monitor came decently calibrated from the factory--but Windows didn't know what to do with my new monitor, perhaps because the backlight was used and tinging red. I spent a lot more time fiddling around with color calibration and QuickGamma than I did actually changing the screen. I've stopped using Linux altogether (but maybe that's just a testimonial for Windows 7). An inexpensive calibration device would be well worthwhile if the funds are available.

Thinkpads are designed to be fixed, which means they were designed to be taken apart, which means modifying them like this is amazingly straightforward. Anyone with moderate mechanical aptitude, and awareness of electrostatic discharge risks to computers, can do this. It isn't difficult as much as tedious, but even then--these things were designed to be taken apart and have parts exchanged, so if you're willing to dive in and be careful, I suspect you'll do just fine. I used to have Apple laptops, and working inside those things was a dungeon compared to my Thinkpad. If you're interested in it, you obviously care about the quality of your monitor, so go for it--or buy an X220 with an IPS screen and turn your current X into a file server.

[lawchristopher]

Mine didn't come with a digitizer so I didn't have to remove anything, but it does bulge a bit at the top probably because of the circuit board being slightly larger than the OEM one. I don't think the panel itself is hitting the keyboard when closing the lid though. Although, I still suggest keeping a piece of paper or something that goes between the panel and keyboard.

[ZaZ]

I wasn't talking about the digitizer. The digitizer is on the back and does not need to be removed. The touch surface is on the front and is glued to the LCD frame. It can be glass or plastic and adds some thickness to the screen. It needs to be removed before it fits the housing properly. I'd guess that's why yours does not. I did the same swap and mine fit perfectly.

[lawchristopher]

There wasn't anything extra on top of mine. Could be all in my head that I think it's bulging a bit. The plate seals perfectly fine. After running the monitor for a few days though I have a spot of clouding around the top left quadrant (about two inchs away from the top and left) and a couple dead pixels Deciding now if I should return it and get a refund or live with it.

[Rizado]

Hello! I just bought a HV121WX4-120 from ebay and have installed it, however the screen is extremely dim. The backlight is working but it seems like all light is going out the backside of the panel instead the front. On my old panel you can't see any backligt from the backside at all?

Also it looks like it has been tampered with, the tape pieces is deformed and there's some kind of brown powder stuck under the tape at certain places. Has anyone had any experience like this? I'm beginning to believe someone was very careless when they modified the screen and that it is totally broken. There's also a few light pixels and the upper corners are much lighter than the rest of the panel. My old panel is completely white when driving it with only the inverter cable attached. This one is almost black (Except for the backside).

Main question: Is the backside of the panel supposed to be illuminated?

[Harryc]

Doesn't sound good. I'd return it.