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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 1:56 pm 

Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2011 12:52 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Garrett Park, MD
I have an old *IBM* Thinkpad A22p with a Pentium III processor (model 1000 or 1000EB by the specs, although I haven't opened the case). A couple of years after I purchased it, it began to power-off unexpectedly when performing processor-intensive calculations. (I'm not talking about a normal shutdown, hibernation, or standby, but an immediate power-off.) First I would hear the cooling fan rev up through its several speeds until it was "roaring." Then, snap -- the power was off and I'd lost whatever I was working on. I tried vacuuming the keyboard and other orifaces, but that didn't help. The only way I could prevent these power-downs was to set the machine up on "stilts" so that it got lots of ventillation to the metal plate on the bottom, which became hot to the touch.

Since the machine was still under warrentee, I sent it back to the factory, where they said they replaced the processor. This made no difference whatsoever, so I just lived with it. Now that I've rejuvinated this old machine (see thread viewtopic.php?f=5&t=101352), I have found a work-around in Windows XP: A cool command-line instruction, powercfg.exe, is capable of forcing the processor into its lowest available clock speed, thereby considerably reducing power consumption and heat generation. Obviously this isn't the optimal solution, however,

My question: Has anyone else experienced this problem and found a more satisfactory solution? Perhaps it's possible for an ordinary user to open the case and clean/replace some cooling equipment without doing permanent damage? Thanks for any help! -- JClarkW

PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 2:30 pm 

Joined: Mon Sep 18, 2006 5:17 am
Posts: 14566
Location: Mt. Cobb, PA USA
Take it apart enough so you can remove the CPU cooler.
Clean the old gunk off CPU and cooler with Isopropyl Alcohol.
Then blow out the dust bunnies of the fan with e.g. a can of compressed air, holding the fan blades so they can't spin.
Then apply fresh thermal paste (AS5 = Arctic Silver 5) on top of the small square of the CPU only.
The amount of a rice corn is enough.
Spread that out evenly (with e.g. a credit card).
Remount the fan assembly.
Enjoy a cool(er) CPU.
For an illustrated manual, see here: ... IGR-4PER6S

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 4:33 pm 

Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2011 12:52 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Garrett Park, MD
Great Stuff! Thanks!

Do you perhaps know anything about how to obtain batteries that actually work right with this dinosaur (see previously referenced post)?

PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:38 am 

Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2011 12:52 pm
Posts: 7
Location: Garrett Park, MD
RealBlackStuff wrote:
...Then apply fresh thermal paste (AS5 = Arctic Silver 5) on top of the small square of the CPU only...

It worked! Thanks again.

By the way, here are a few details I discovered in the process that might help the next guy with this problem (on some A22p's at least). Please let me (us) know if you think I made any errors here:

1) The heavy, cast-aluminum, heat-sink/fan assembly has a stiff, but relatively thin, metal plate (chrome-plated from its look) riveted to its CPU (bottom) side. I followed your (and Arctic Silver's own) instructions in cleaning off the old, and applying the new, thermal compound to the CPU surface that contacts this plate, BUT...

2) The other (top) side of the same plate appears to be held against the heat sink itself only by the pressure of the CPU when the mounting screws are installed. There was no original thermal goo here, and thermal contact seemed problematic -- another potential cause of my overheating problems? Anyhow I smeared more Arctic Silver on these surfaces as well (prying them apart just enough with a small screw driver to insert a scalpel blade carrying the goo), in hopes of further improving conduction between CPU and heat sink.

3) On the other (top) side of the cast-aluminum part of the heat-sink/fan assembly there is a thick, snake-like, metal tube (bar?) that appears intended to help carry heat from the CPU area to the fan area of the assembly. (Just out of curiosity, does anyone know what this is made of?) There is old, white, thermal goo between this "snake" and its channel in the cast aluminum, but there appeared to be no way to replace that with Arctic Silver because the two are crimped together. Any other suggestions here?

4) Finally, after re-assembling the unit, I noticed another tubular, snake-like, tube/bar bolted to one edge of the cast aluminum heat sink and running around a corner to the main hinge on the back of the machine -- possibly another thermal conduit? If I was supposed to add Arctic Silver to that joint as well (there was no original white goo there either), I missed it. Is it worth another dis-assembly to remedy this?

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